The time has come to bid another one of our beloved Hakosukas farewell.  We’ve been so busy around the shop lately that I’ve realized that we never really had the chance to give this car a proper introduction, so here’s a a little back history to catch you up to date.

We picked this car up in Japan a few months ago with the Red KGC10 that you might have seen once or twice on our page ;)  While this one may not have quite the motor build that the Red one possessed it still had a special beauty in it’s own right.  Here’s one of the first tiny cell phone pictures I ever received of this car in Japan…    and I was already in Love.

There’s no denying this car has a great look out of the box.   Rear GT-R over-fenders are a common sight on the clones that come out of Japan but this one also had a matching set of  thin-style up front as well to complete the look.  Nice drop, nice chrome, deep chin spoiler, twin pipe SS exhaust, and you can ‘t forget those Hayashi’s  <3 <3 <3

The motor is basically a stock L20A (2.0 L in-line six cylinder) with a nice set of 40mm Mikuni’s, header, 5-speed, Trust oil cooler, and aforementioned exhaust.   Something I haven’t seen yet on a car that has come through the shop are those original Nismo plug wires…  I usually have a severe opposition to most things yellow but I’ll let it slide this time ;)

The interior is nice as well,  classic Nardi wheel and a leather Recaro for the driver.

After a little cleanup and making sure the electrical system was up to par it was time to get the carbs sorted to get this car running properly.  After draining the fuel from the tank like we always do as a precautionary measure,  we started with some basic synchronizing and minor adjustments to see if we could improve the situation.   It was getting better although we were still having an odd, reoccurring lean situation at full and part throttle between 2000-3000 RPMS so it was time for a little dissasembly.

We had thought it was a fueling issue due the the floats being out of adjustment,  after pulling the carbs apart to verify the settings were correct Ryan found a strange White powder that had accumulated in the accelerator pump, and only in the center carburetor….

After cleaning out the mysterious white powder and all of the orifices ( I still have no idea what it was, or how it got there) we once again reassembled them to find the car running even better but still not quite perfect.  It’s at this point that we recommend a complete rebuild on the  carburetors.  The buyer wasn’t quite sure how long he would be keeping this particular drive train in the car so he decided they were good enough for now so we’ll see how they do after a littler more fine tuning at his elevation.

Speaking of the new owner, Jose was lucky enough to be able to stop by on his way out West to check out the  car first hand.   I think he’s happy and I can see why,  it’s also pretty phenomenal that both of our last Hakosukas  went to people involved in the automotive design industry as you may have seen from the last Depth of Speed installment.  I think it speaks volumes to the timeless and captivating designs of these cars.  Jose is a designer at GM in Detroit, I can’t wait to see this car tearing up the streets in motor city….   or better yet, parked next to a row of Corvettes and Camaros in the employee parking lot.

Like I have mentioned before, something that we are now starting to do here at JDM Legends,  Jose was also able to custom tailor exactly how much restoration was done to the car before he received it to work within his preferences and budget.  There were a few minor spots of corrosion along the rocker panels that I would have liked to have taken care of but Jose had informed me that he has family in the paint and body business that would be taking care of it (and who can argue with that?) He decided to have us take care of a few more involved areas underneath the car beforehand instead.

The floor pan itself was in great condition but this car also had some corrosion in the same area as the Red car which requires a rear sub-frame removal in order to be repaired properly .

 

I won’t get into too much detail because I’ve covered it before but here’s a few pictures to give you an idea.


New metal, treated, cut and tacked into place before being fully welded, ground, and covered in POR 15.

Re-install the sub-frame, bleed the brakes and change the fluids and she’s all ready to go.

Loaded up on the trailer this morning for that long ride to Detroit…

Take good care of it Jose, I know you will :)